Articles - General Equine en-us http://www.horsechitchat.com/equinearticles N/A http://www.horsechitchat.com/equinearticles Ron@Emanindustries.com 20 http://www.horsechitchat.com/equinearticles/articles/305/1/Basic-PreRide-WarmUp/Page1.html Many people just get on and ride - here's a better way for yourself and your horse. Ron@Emanindustries.com (Ron Petracek) Wed, 30 Apr 2008 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.horsechitchat.com/equinearticles/articles/306/1/Basic-Riding---Mounting-Up/Page1.html Beginning to ride can be overwhelming, but like any skill it is learned. Ron@Emanindustries.com (Ron Petracek) Sat, 26 Apr 2008 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.horsechitchat.com/equinearticles/articles/307/1/Basic-Riding---Before-You-Mount/Page1.html Many people think riding is just get on and go. For the beginner, here's some things you can do before you begin riding to make riding time better. Ron@Emanindustries.com (Ron Petracek) Wed, 23 Apr 2008 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.horsechitchat.com/equinearticles/articles/308/1/Retraining-The-Hard-To-Catch-Horse/Page1.html Dealing with a horse you can't catch can be frustrating. Fixing the problem is relatively simple. Worddemon@gmail.com (Jan Wright) Sat, 19 Apr 2008 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.horsechitchat.com/equinearticles/articles/298/1/Hygiene-For-Geldings-and-Stallions/Page1.html Good hygiene is needed for geldings and stallions and should be a part of regular grooming. Worddemon@gmail.com (Jan Wright) Mon, 18 Feb 2008 00:00:00 -0800 http://www.horsechitchat.com/equinearticles/articles/7/1/Colic-in-the-Boarded-Horse/Page1.html The boarded horse lives a different lifestyle than those who live at their owner’s home or are turned out to pasture.  These horses often live in stalls and may or may not have runs.  They may spend their days inside and their only exercise may be an hour of riding or turnout time.  Many horses are able to adapt to this lifestyle very well if they were raised in this manner as foals.  Horses who have been turned out their whole life and then are put in a stall may not adjust so well.  These horses may also have an increase chance in developing colic.    Colic is a broad term that generally means that the horse has a stomachache.  The horse’s digestive system is very unique in that their stomachs are unusually small for their size.  The natural lifestyle of the horse has been changed drastically over the past one hundred years.  Horses were designed by nature to stay in pasture and constantly graze throughout the day.  Instead we have brought our horses in from the pastures and put them in stalls.  We then continue to feed them the same amount of grain concentrate that they receive while they are working or not.  We also provide them with a flake or two of hay.  They receive their ration twice a day.  Horses were not designed to eat these two large meals per day.  Horses also do not have a sense of being full, which contributes to most colic cases where horses have broken into feed rooms.  The boarded horse has been able to adjust to these large meals despite his small stomach, but many still have difficulties.    Boarded horses usually experience colic because of one or two reasons.  The first is that the horse is having a hard time adjusting to his new stall life from one in a pasture.  He is fed two large meals per day and this is shocking his system.  He is unable to properly digest this large amount of feed in such a short time period when he is designed to eat small meals throughout the day.  These large meals basically result in overloading his small stomach and killing the helpful bacteria that exist in his hindgut.  The other reason for colic is that the horse has managed to break into a feed room or feed storage area.  Because the horse is unable to have the feeling of “fullness,” he will continue to eat the tasty sweet feed until he is very ill.   There are a few major signs of colic that one should look for in an ill horse.  The horse may roll continuously.  He will get up and get down and roll over and over.  He will also look back or kick at his belly because it hurts.  They may also result in a fever.  Extreme cases of colic will also make a horse founder and he will appear to be sitting back on his hind feet.  He will try not to put any pressure on his front feet because they are hot and hurting.  These horses will need immediate medical attention.  Severe cases of colic have resulted in the deaths of many horses.  When you find a horse that is colicking, you should first alert a veterinarian.  You will then need to catch the horse and keep him walking.  Walking will keep the horses gut moving and keep him from rolling.  Horses who roll viscously may be causing themselves more problems.  Rolling will cause the intestines of the horse to twist and tangle.  Many horses have been lost to twisted guts as they cause pressure build up from internal gases and eventually something will give.   There are generally two treatments for horses that do not require colic surgery.  Horses will be given an injection of Banamine.  If your barn has Banamine on hand, you can call your veterinarian and ask him if you can give this to your horse and how much.  Banamine causes the smooth muscle in the stomach to calm and not contract.  This will relieve much of the pain that the horse is feeling.  The horse is usually injected and walked until the no longer attempt to lie down and roll.  This procedure, however, may take hours and many people have been known to walk horses all night long.  The second method is to use mineral oil down the horse’s throat and into the gut.  The oil will cause the horses system to flush out all of the built up concentrate that is causing the horse to colic.  These horses may also be injected with Banamine and walked until the no longer show signs of colic.   To avoid colic in horses, horses should be allowed to have ample water that is clean and fresh.  They should also be allowed to munch on hay all day if they are going to be stalled.  Horses that receive two large meals per day should also be allowed hay during the day if possible.  If possible, it is best that horses have their concentrate amount split up into four or five small meals per day, unfortunately many barns are not able to provide this service.  Owners may choose to invest in automatic feeders that will dispense a small amount of feed at specific times.  There are also automatic feeders for hay flakes.  In pasture, horses should have plenty of short grass.  Horses will tend to not eat tall grass and may starve themselves.  If the grass is limited, owners should provide horses with round bales.  Horses should also not be allowed to roam free in barns where the feed is readily stored unless they are locked with a padlock or combination locks.  Many horses have found ways to unclip locks and break into feed containers.  Horses should also receive ample exercise to insure that their bowels are moving properly.    As a responsible owner, it is common courtesy to notice any abnormal changes in fellow boarders horses as well as your own.  If you see anything that is slightly odd or different you are better off alerting the barn manager and owners.  The situation may turn out to be nothing, but you are better safe than sorry.  Your horse will soon become a beloved part of your family and you will want to insure his safety and health at all times.   eqad@suddenlinkmail.com (Val Equine Internet) Thu, 19 Oct 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.horsechitchat.com/equinearticles/articles/5/1/Equine-Herpes-Virus-Will-Bring-Down-Your-Barn/Page1.html Many horse owners believe that they are covered from the Equine Herpesvirus when they have their horses vaccinated for Rhinopneumonitis.  They don’t realize that the vaccination is only effective on the respiratory end of the disease.  In fact, the most devastating part of Equine Herpesvirus is the neurological effects that the disease can have on horses.   Many horse owners don’t know that there are at least four types of Equine Herpesvirus.  The ones that we associate the most are EHV-1 and EHV-4.  EHV-1 is the most prevalent and often the most destructive to the horse.  EHV-1 causes severe respiratory problems, abortion in mares and neurological disease.  EHV-4 causes upper respiratory infection only.  Most horses, however, contract EHV-1 and is it usually first diagnosed by runny noses, fevers, coughs and broodmares that are aborting.   The neurological disease of EHV-1 is a mutant strain and has caused many stables and racetracks to have to be quarantined around the country.  The University of Findley in Ohio has reported the most devastating outbreak of EHV-1 where one-third of the schools 140 horses displayed the neurological symptoms in 2003.  Twelve of the horses died from the disease.   Once the virus has infected the horse, the horse will be a lifelong carrier.  This is very similar to the herpes diseases found in humans.  The horses may no longer show signs of being ill, but they will continue to shed the virus, especially during times of high stress.  The horses sporadic shedding of the disease is often considered the cause of many outbreaks that occur randomly.  Many veterinarians believe that nearly three-quarters of the equine population are thought to be carriers of the EHV-1 non-neurological form of the virus.   The disease is spread by infected horses through their respiratory secretions.  Horses can contract the disease through nose-to-nose contact, sharing buckets, bits, lip chains and even on handlers.  Once the virus has made it into the horse, the virus travels through the bloodstream.  The early symptoms include nasal discharge and a slight increase in temperature.  The fever does not remain consistent, so if you believe that your horse is showing symptoms, you will want to check their temperature every six hours.  The nasal discharge will begin clear, but will turn to thick and milky.  Your veterinarian can obtain swabs of the discharge and blood samples to test for the disease.   If the horse is infected with the neurological strain, the horse will begin to show symptoms in six to twelve days.  The initial progression of the disease may happen quickly and within 24 to 72 hours.  Fevers are generally over 102 degrees Fahrenheit and other symptoms include the nasal discharge, depression and loss of appetite. The first neurological symptoms may begin in the hindquarters and may include toe dragging, a floppy tail, incontinence and weakness in the hind legs.  Eventually, the horse will not be able to stand.  If the horse is down for more than twenty-four hours, it is not likely that they will survive the infection. As the disease is caused by a virus, there is no cure for it. Many vets will give horses immune modulator shots that will help to boost their immune system and will help them to attack the disease through their own immunity.  Many horses with only the respiratory problems will do well with the shots.  Antibiotics are not going to generally help these horses, as they do not kill viruses, only bacteria.  While the horse is ill with the respiratory condition, all that owners and vets can do is to treat their symptoms.  Your vet will provide you with strong anti-inflammatory that lessens swelling and pain.   There are also no vaccines that are capable of preventing the neurological form of the disease.  Studies have been done on small groups of horses to compare the effects of the modified-live vaccine versus the inactivated killed vaccine.  The modified-live version of the vaccine seemed to be more effective to prevent the respiratory disease, while neither had an effect on preventing the neurological symptoms.  The vaccine will help to minimize the spread of the virus.    To prevent your horses from becoming victims to EHV-1, it is recommended that your horses be placed on a food vaccination program as well as good herd management.  The American Association of Equine Practitioners recommends that all pregnant mares be vaccinated in order to prevent abortions.  Foals, weanlings, and yearlings should also be vaccinated. Foals should receive their first dose at four to six months, their second dose at five to seven months and their third dose at six to eight months.  They should also receive the vaccinations at three-month intervals.  Yearlings and performance horses should receive booster shots every three to four months or annually depending on the amount of stress that they are under. Broodmares should be vaccinated at their fifth, seventh and ninth months of gestation with the inactivated EHV-1 vaccine.  You may also give them an optional dose at their third month if the mare is under stress.  Mares should also be vaccinated before breeding and four to six weeks before foaling.  Breeding stallions should also be vaccinated prior to the start of their breeding season as well as every six months.   Other preventative strategies include sanitizing your barn at least three times per year.  Barns that have experienced outbreaks may sanitize six times per year.  If you show horses and their was suspicion that horses at the show may have been sick with the virus, you will want to quarantine your own horses from the rest of the herd for up to twenty-one days.  You will also want to disinfect every area of the barn which suspects sick horses have been housed or worked.   If an outbreak does occur at your barn, you will want to instruct all owners, handlers and visitors to wear leather or rubber boots that can be disinfected in chlorine or bleach.  You should have disinfectant tubs located at every entrance to the barn.  You will want to disinfect all stalls, floors, walls and possibly even arenas and fencing.  Disinfect all grooming supplies, buckets, water troughs and tack that may have been shared.  One horse in a large herd can spread the disease throughout the whole herd.  eqad@suddenlinkmail.com (Val Equine Internet) Thu, 19 Oct 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.horsechitchat.com/equinearticles/articles/4/1/How-to-Photograph-your-Horse/Page1.html   How to Photograph Your Horse A good photograph portrays your horse in his best possible light. A bad photograph, by contrast, draws attention to every fault, no matter how insignificant, and sometimes even exaggerates those faults! Whether you are advertising your horse because he is for sale or advertising his recent show ring accomplishments, knowing how to photograph your horse correctly is a skill you must develop. If you derive income from your horses getting good photographs of them to put in front of the public is absolutely integral! So, how do you take good photographs of your horse? Well, the first thing you should know is that it takes a little bit of practice. You shouldn't expect to load your camera, take a few rolls, and be Robert Vavra over night! However, if you follow the following tips you'll be shooting great pics of your horse in no time. • Film matters! That's right, use good-quality film such as Kodak or Fuji, and you'll see it really does make a difference. If you are using a 35 mm format opt for 200 ASA. Going digital? The higher the pixels the better. • Pick the right day. A bright day is good, but pick a day that isn't too sunny. Too much sun will create dark shadows, and can be particularly problematic if you are shooting a dark horse. If you have no choice but to shoot on a sunny day, use a flash to eliminate shadows. It sounds counterintuitive, but it really does work! • Prepare your horse. Now I know you are not going to stand him up hairy and dirty, but in addition to good grooming you might want to take some extra steps to ensure your horse looks his best. If appropriate to the discipline in which he participates, braid his mane and oil his hooves. Make sure his coat and his tail are shiny and well-brushed. • Pick a uncluttered background. A natural background such as a field, woodland, or pasture is a good choice. The barnyard or driveway, no matter how neat and clean, is not a great choice because of the stuff that is bound to be in the background. You want the viewer to be wowed by your horse, not your new Cadillac Escalade. Look at the details before you click! Sounds crazy, but how many amateur photographs have you seen that depict horses with pitchforks growing out of their heads? As improbably as it sounds, I bet at least one, right? It bears repeating—check the background! • Make sure tack is clean. If you photograph your horse in his bridle or saddle, make sure that both have been recently scrubbed. For that matter, anything your horse wears in a photo should be squeaky clean. That goes for the rider and handler, too! • Enlist the help of a knowledgeable horse person. You can't take pictures and position the horse too, so you'll need some help. It's best if the person who helps you knows how to pose a horse to his best advantage. • The angle and position of the horse are key. For a full body shot, stand the horse with both front legs together and one hind leg slightly behind the other. To minimize parts looking too large or too small, focus on the middle of the horse, and do not shoot from too high or too low. Make sure the horse looks alert with bright eyes and both ears forward. Horse not cooperating? Have a friend make some noise (outside the frame, of course!) to get your horse's attention. • Get the right action. If you are taking shots of your horse in action, you'll want to capture his power and impulsion. If your horse is trotting or cantering, try to capture him with his leading leg extended. • Stay away from the front and rear. Photos from the side come out much nicer than photos taken head on or from the rear, which almost always accentuate unwanted things and make them look, well, HUGE! • Keep clicking! While skill is most certainly involved, some of the best horse photographs are lucky. That's right. Don't wait for the perfect moment. Just keep clicking and you are sure to get a shot that shows your horse at his best! Equine InternetCSW1 bdduganvt@comcast.net (Dawn Equine Staff) Thu, 19 Oct 2006 00:00:00 -0700