Daniel,

I've retrained several thoroughbreds for hunter/jumper as well as dressage. Both of my last two exracehorses used to fly away from the leg and were sensitive and forward. Though, I have to say, I trained them english first, then western and some didn't appreciate the shift in saddle placement as well as weight difference. The fact that you are now riding your horse english means most likely that your saddle is more forward (and likely more reminiscent of a racing saddle) and he can feel your body and seat much more clearly, which could be confusing. And, take no offense, if you're not balanced or you have a driving seat, whether you know it or not, you could be really confusing him.

As well as the fact that your legs are now resting against his sides instead of somewhat off the horse as in a western saddle. If you don't realize how much grip you have, you could be setting him off.

Also, I don't know what kind of bit you're using and what you use western. If you ride him western with no contact and a port bit and now you're trying to ride him english on contact, there's a couple of issues here. One being that most racehorses are taught to run faster with contact (it sounds odd, but racehorses are typically taught to balance on their jockey's hands.) I've actually seen exracehorse go down when their riders dropped contact because they were still laying in the rider's hands. So much of retraining an exracehorse involves teaching him that contact does not mean run.

Another point I would add is that correct hunters go forward. The nice thing about TB's is that they naturally go forward, so when you work with them, you try not to destroy that forward nature. (It's this nature that makes me far prefer TBs to warmbloods in dressage..I know I'm in the minority, but I don't have to work nearly as hard as my friends with the big warmbloods.) SO you want to be careful when using artificial means of forcing him to go slower. There needs to be a balance between showing the horse the natural roundness he needs to frame into while also ensuring that he is tracking up well behind and working over his back. If you don't know how to use draw reins you can do serious damage. I've seen horses broken down and ruined by incorrect use. I'm not a fan of them unless in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing. I do use balancing reins and side reins on the longe line. I never use them while riding (that's just plain dangerous.)

Frankly, I would restart your horse entirely as a very green horse off the track and get him used being ridden off the seat more than leg. I would concentrate on transitions and half halts. Once you get him working off the seat, your leg yields will come just by your stepping into the stirrup and dropping a seat bone into the direction you want to leg yield. You can get him to respond by being lighter with your aids. For example, don't use your leg to push him into a leg yield. Instead try stepping into that stirrup and see what he gives you. And when you ask for the trot, decide that your trot command will only be the inside leg and not both legs. Do transitions within the gaits such as medium walk to collected walk to working walk just by a) driving your seat or b) steadying your seat. Same thing with the trot...regular, collected and working just through the seat. (You can use your post as a half halt, slow your post and your horse will shorten his stride, increase your post and he will extend. Assuming your horse's back is strong enough for a sit trot, use your seat to drive him forward and steady your seat to ask him to collect.) You'll likely need to use a closing outside rein or closing both reins until he gets the idea. My ex racehorse will come to a halt from a working trot now just by my stepping left then right because she feels my seat bones drop down left and right.

Anyway...a lot depends on what equipment you are using for both and how steady a rider you are. If you want to email with questions, feel free to at KCGarland@yahoo.com