Ok,
Lets see if we can work some of this out.
@ 11, she should not be growing and should not have too many performance injuries to prevent her from doing what is asked.
Quote:
What breed is she: Paint (halter bred so she has a shorter gait)
May also have shorter thicker shoulder/throatlatch/neck-deeper more square chest/forearms-rounder deeper set hip.
Some of the good halter conformation will hinder her in being able to go long & low- not that she can't do it to the best of HER ability she can't/won't look the same as a sleaker built horse
Quote:
How tall is she: 15.1hh
Quote:
How much does she weigh [apprx]: 1000?
Height to weight ratio-As above will only allow her to move a certain way
Quote:
What is she trained to do: English/Western-Pleasure,Trail,Patterns,Showmanship
Quote:
She only takes her right lead when she is ridden i didnt pay attention to out and about stuff
What makes a good Lope departure different from a bad lope departure is basically the preparation for it. You ask the horse to collect, move off your leg, respond to your hand and then depart.
For example, if I am moving from a walk or jog into a lope,
I slightly lift my hand and ask the horse to flex slightly to theinside; at the same time I squeeze with my cue leg, my outside leg, and push the horse to the lead I’m going to ask for.
I want to feel the horse move into the direction I’m pushing him. Then I ask for the lope departure with either an increased leg pressure or spur pressure and a smooch.
But if a horse is dramatically different from one side to the
other – he’s great on the left lead and cannot perform on the
right lead – the first place I go in that situation is my veterinarian.
There is always the possibility that the horse has a
medical issue or soundness problem.
Quote:
Who suggested the draw reins: my intermediate-advanced friend
Quote:
How low are you trying to get the head and why: under the withers for western, i show circut shows and i want to be able to get her head down with one hand and keep it there.
Try this in a snaffle with 2 hands;
Take a hold of both reins. Pull them back and slightly up evenly at the same time so they are snug (like you would to back her). Hold them tight until she lowers her head a little and tucks her nose towards her chest. As soon as she does, release you reins. Do it at the stand still first, then when she's good at that do it at the walk, then the trot, etc.
Also do lots of lateral (side to side) bending as well. Usually, the lateral bending comes first. Take one rein and pull it towards your hip. When she tips her nose in or bends her neck, release the rein. Usually, if you can't do a lateral bend, they aren't very good at flexing at the poll.
It takes about 1,000 of them to get a soft, supple horse.
It's takes a lot of bending to get them consistant, but, IMO, it you'll have a much better headset than if you were to use devices.
Quote:
she will sidepass but she backs at the same time.
This explains the aids very well;
http://www.aqha.com/magazines/aqhj/c...owatrainer.pdf
Quote:
I use a curbed kimberwick so its really mild, and i only use the drawreins for western, this is the bit i use(attachment)
Your bit is not a Kimberwick and it is very harsh;
Kimberwicke - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Western bits are sold under many different names-medium port transition curb-possibly
This is very long-but is the very best at explaing bits & bitting;
::: Sustainable Dressage - Tack & Auxillary Equipment - The Bridle & the Bit :::
When/Why are you asking for collection: At the canter so it looks nicer[/quote]
http://www.aqha.com/magazines/aqhj/c...owatrainer.pdf